Sandcarving FAQ
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SANDBLASTING
What materials can I sandblast?
There are many materials that are compatible with sandblasting. Whether you are looking to etch or deep carve, we have created a quick reference chart for Sandblastable Material Compatibility. CLICK HERE to download our handy chart.
Why is a pressure pot better than a siphon-fed blaster?
Pressure pot blasters work faster (up to 4x faster) than siphon-feed blasters. Further, pressure-pots allow for more control of the blast media and pressure. With a pressure pot, you can blast at pressures as low as 5 psi for shading effects, etc. up to the higher pressures needed for certain substrates.
How do I remove the mask when I am done etching?
The mask can be removed by peeling, or by soaking the object in warm water. Removal can be expedited by spraying the piece with some Resist Remover prior to soaking. Adding some soda ash to the water can also help when removing RapidMask.
What size compressor should I use?
This will vary with the size of nozzle, and type of blaster. For example, a pressure pot with a 3/32” nozzle may only need 7 CFM of air at 40 psi. A siphon-fed blaster may require double that amount. It is always better to have MORE air flow capability than you need. For best results, please refer to the specifications guide that came with your blaster.
Why won’t the mask stay on the glass when I blast?
This can have several causes. The most common is lack of adhesion. This can be caused by using glue that is not mixed well, by air bubbles trapped under the mask during application, or even by contaminants on the substrate. Mask that is properly adhered to the glass will reduce the incidence of blow-offs. Another cause is that the air mixture in the sandblaster may be too lean. This increases the power of the air coming out of the nozzle, which can literally blow the mask off of the glass. Increasing the flow of abrasive media slightly may reduce mask blow-offs.
How long will my blaster parts last?
This will vary with the type and size of abrasive used, the pressures used for sandblasting, and the substrates blasted. Generally speaking, coarse grit and high blasting pressure will wear out parts faster than fine grits and low pressures.
Where do I purchase DuraMold?
DuraMold Silicone Sandcarving Safeguard has been discontinued and will no longer be sold by IKONICS Imaging.
A recommended replacement is Amazing Mold Putty by Alumilite. This putty has been tested by IKONICS Imaging and has been found to be a good alternative for use with our CrystalBlast sandcarving units and tapeless port insert.
If choosing to make a mold using silicone putty for use with the Tapeless Port Insert, be sure to look for Rare Earth Disk magnets to use to attach the mold to the insert.
Read about making a silicone sandcarving mold using putty here.
What size/type of grit should I use?
For best all-around results, we recommend Silicon Carbide grit in a 180 mesh size. To do fine detail, and for shading purposes, 220 mesh or finer will work well. Other abrasives (such as Aluminum Oxide) can be used, but Silicon Carbide is preferred.
Why do I blast THROUGH the mask?
This can happen when the nozzle is held in one position too long. This will cause the mask to heat up and soften, reducing its capabilities as a resist. A second possible cause is contamination in the grit. Contaminants will act like a "dart", piercing the mask, and causing a pinhole effect. A third possible cause is the use of abrasive media that is too coarse. Photoresists are most effective when used with grit of a 180 mesh size or finer.
What is the difference between Aluminum Oxide and Silicon Carbide?
Silicon Carbide cuts twice as fast as Aluminum Oxide, lasts much longer than Aluminum Oxide, does not get dull with repeated use (self-sharpens), and does not cause static electricity to build up in the cabinet. It is also more expensive than Aluminum Oxide. A side-benefit is that it actually “glows” when hitting the substrate, which can be used as an indicator of nozzle aim.